Albania is a developing country. It is a challenge to travel.

There is no Tourist Information Booth, nor Tourist Map. City bus routes don’t show up on Google maps and most taxi drivers don’t speak English. Older citizens know some Italian. We have come across some people working in coffee shops that have been conversant in English.

In the evenings and after dark in Tirana we see people out for a stroll, couples pushing strollers, children playing in squares, gatherings at sidewalk cafes. It feels very safe.

I had read that Albania was a foodie destination. That isn’t exactly what we’re finding in Tirana. There’s not a street food scene. Snacks, and baked goods are available at some coffee shops. We have seen some high-end restaurants offering typical Albanian fare but have had a harder time finding casual restaurants serving entrees other than pitas, crepes, waffles, burgers and pizza. Regarding international chains, the only ones we’ve seen Burger King, Pizza Hut and KFC.

I recently read that the midday meal is the main meal of the day, which may be why we only see people with drinks or ice cream in the evening. We’ve been looking at the wrong time.

On the coast, in Sarandë, seafood and Italian are the most common choices. There are lots of Italian tourists, as there is a ferry between here and Bari, Italy.

I was told that to travel by bus between cities there is no ticket office for advance ticket purchases, no apps or website information, that one needs to show up at one of the three Tirana bus terminals and find a bus going to their destination. Depending on your destination one goes to either the Terminal for North Albania, the Terminal for Southern Albania, or the Terminal for South Eastern Albania. They said there is no timetable but when we got there, they knew when the next bus was departing. It would’ve been nice to know ahead of time because we had to wait 1 hour and 20 minutes, but at least we got assigned seats. Later arrivals were allowed to sit on the bus stairs, and others turned away!

The ride was nerve-wracking. I was not happy with the driver honking, lurching and braking, tailgating vehicles, and passing on curves. (Basically, it was very similar to experiences in Latin American countries.) We survived but I’m glad we aren’t taking the bus back! Once was enough for me.

The trip to Sarandë was through some high mountains and pretty scenery, taking 5+ hours. We stopped once for fuel and once for w/c and lunch.

In both cities, we have witnessed cars stopping or double-parking on the street, turning on their flashers and blocking a lane. It makes for a traffic inconvenience for the other drivers who have to go around them. Many times the frustrated drivers resort to honking their horns.

Many toilets have signs that toilet paper is not to be flushed.

Sidewalks are in sad disrepair and each step requires vigilance.

On a positive note, there are crosswalks and drivers generally stop once we’re brave enough to step out.

In Tirana we ventured onto the local city bus where we learned an attendant comes to take your fare and give you a ticket. A second attendant checks your ticket and puts a tear in it to show it’s been used.

We enjoy connecting with locals and would love to have a real conversation, but isn’t easy. One of the best connections we had was with a city bus attendant who asked where we were from and volunteered that he was a Christian living in a Muslim majority country and that Albanians love President Woodrow Wilson. At that same moment, I looked out the window and noticed we were on George W. Bush Avenue. Hmm…another curiosity to look into.

Albania has had a turbulent road to independence. In 1912 it declared independence from the Ottoman Empire, was conquered by Italy in 1939, Germany in 1943, and Communists ruled for 46 years until 1991 after which Albania was left poor, isolated and in need of infrastructure.

Economically, socially and democratically Albania is making progress, although it is still one of Europe’s poorest countries.

Begging is practically non existent yet I have witnessed people going through the garbage dumpsters, some men passed out on the street and a few Roma children going from table to table with outstretched palms.

Tirana is having a construction boom. Many of the newer buildings are architecturally unique.

Several surveys rank Albania as one of the world’s least religious nations, as only 39% of the population claim religion plays an important role in their lives. Secular Muslims, at 60% of the population make up the majority and 17% are Christian.

Albania was one of the earliest seats of Christianity; there are Catholic, Orthodox and Evangelical churches.

Islam came to Albania in the 6th century under the Ottoman Turks. Communism banned religious practices in the country and Albania became the world’s first atheist state.

Albanians are known to be highly tolerant towards the religions of others, and therefore believers of various faiths peacefully co-exist in the country.

WorldAtlas

From my balcony in Sarandë I see both a minaret and an Orthodox church and hear the call to prayer several times a day as well as the morning church bells.

Our passports were not stamped when we arrived in Albania. We have heard that US citizens can stay in Albania up to one year visa free after which they must depart for a minimum of 3 months before they can return for another year-long stay. One restauranteur told us there are 150 US expats living in Sarande and that many leave for 3 months during the crazy high season.

Albanian Riviera, Bunkerization, Communism, Coffee Culture, curious and friendly people – all make me glad we came to Albania. It is a gem in the rough; totally worth the challenges to travel around Albania.

Meet You in the Morning in the Albanian Riviera town of Sarandë!