Albania is said to be the most tunnelled country in the world after North Korea. No surprise there since both countries have had paranoid cult-like communist/socialist leaders.
Meet Enver Hoxha. Following World War II, Albania became a satellite state of the Soviet Union, and Hoxha the leader of the newly established People’s Socialist Republic of Albania.
After a 1964 visit to North Korea, the Albanian government began a policy of “bunkerization” constructing hundreds of thousands of bunkers across the country that could withstand chemical and nuclear attack. They were built in every possible location, ranging from beaches and mountains, in vineyards and pastures, in villages and towns, even on the manicured lawns of Albania’s best hotel.
Bunkerization
168,000 bunkers were constructed.
From the age of three, Albanians were taught to be “vigilant for the enemy within and without,” and propaganda slogans constantly emphasised the need for watchfulness. Citizens were trained from the age of 12 to station themselves in the nearest bunker to repel invaders.
The entire population was trained in self defense.
Some bunkers accommodated 1 or 2 persons, others were clustered and connected by tunnels, and larger ones like what we explored at Bunk’Art1 were built underground to protect members of the government and the secret police from nuclear attack.
Bunk’Art 1 and Bunk’Art 2: Bunk’Art2 is right off Skanderbeg Square and was crowded. Instead we decided to visit the original Bunk’Art1 Museum a couple miles away and practically had the place to ourselves. We were told that it was the more interesting and longer bunker. Cost for a combination ticket to both bunker museums was 500 Lek. We purchased the reduced retirement ticket at Bunk’Art 1 for 400 Lek each.
We taxied there for 700 Lek and caught a blue bus back to Skanderbeg Square for 40 Lek each. The bus route is a loop so one could take it both ways from Skanderbeg Square.
The Supreme Commander of the Armed Forces at this time was Enver Hoxha so this suite of rooms: ante-room (photo above), living room (pictured below), bedroom and bathroom were the largest, most luxurious rooms in the bunker to house him and his wife.
During WW2 while Albania was under German occupation, this U.S. C-53 Skytrooper made an emergency landing in Albania.
Everyone on board survived. They were 13 female Army nurses, ages 25-31 – all second lieutenants, 13 male Army medics – all sergeants and 4 crew members.
To avoid Germans detection and protect them, the locals dismantled the plane. (How did they get rescued?)
Are you, like me, intrigued with this true story and want to learn more? Here is a list of books:
- Albanian Escape: The True Story of U. S. Army Nurses Behind Enemy Lines by Agnes Jensen Mangerich
- Savage Will: The Daring Escape of Americans Trapped Behind Nazi Lines by Timothy M. Gay
- The Secret Rescue: An Untold Story of American Nurses and Medics Behind Nazi Lines by Cate Lineberry
- Out of Albania: A True Account of a WWII Underground Rescue Mission from the Memoirs of Lawrence O. Abbott
Dajti Express: While in the same region as BunkArt1 – a few blocks uphill walk will bring you to the cable car station to Dajti Mountain National Park. Cost was €14 round-trip per person.
Communism
While under Communism Albania was the most isolated country in Europe, its government hostile towards the country’s immediate neighbours. Albania remained in a state of war with Greece, left over from the Second World War, until as late as 1987.
Hoxha used brutal tactics of fear and violence to control those with opposing viewpoints. His government confiscated land from big landowners and gave it to peasants, outlawed travel abroad and private proprietorship, implemented state atheism and closed all of Albania’s religious facilities. Political imprisonment and executions were common. Neighbors were encouraged to spy on neighbors and family members. The Albanian government went to great lengths to prevent people from leaving the country.
The Sigurimi, was the state security, intelligence and secret police service of the People’s Socialist Republic of Albania. At one point, every third Albanian had either been interrogated by the Sigurimi or incarcerated in labour camps where many died working on the bunker projects.
House of Leaves Museum aka the Secret Surveillance Museum is “dedicated to the innocent people who were spied on, arrested, prosecuted, convicted and executed during the communist regime.”
The museum is across the street from the Resurrection of Christ Greek Orthodox cathedral. Admission: 700 Lek
Enver Hoxha died April 11, 1985 at the age of 76.
The Fall of the Berlin Wall on November 9, 1989 was encouraging to those desiring freedom.
On July 2, 1990 several thousand, mostly young Albanians, attacked the German Embassy in Tirana which helped bring about the end of 45 years of communist regime.
The current Republic of Albania, a unitary Parliamentary Constitutional Republic, was established in 1991.
Were you already familiar with the story of the downed plane in Albania and their rescue? Do you want to learn more and plan to look for any of the books? If so, leave a comment below.
Meet You in the Morning – for espresso – in the Republic of Albania?
Meet You In The Morning 