Krakow’s Other Districts

Today we visit two of Krakow’s districts that originally were separate towns: Kazimierz and Podgorze.

On February 27, 1355 King Kazmir the Great granted a charter for a new city to be named for him – Kazimierz.

A 10-minute walk south from Wawel Hill brings one to Kazimierz which was the center of Jewish life for 500 years.

Ulica Szeroka – the original town square of a small 12th-century village was absorbed into Kazimierz. In the late 15th century Jews banished from living in Krakow settled in this area and constructed synagogues.
A window to an old Jewish cemetery.
Remuh Synagogue dating from 1553 is Krakow’s smallest but most active synagogue.

The neighborhood is home to the churches of St. Catherine and Corpus Christi, which dates back to the 14th-century, and Remuh Synagogue and Cemetery, Popper, Isaac, Kupa, Old, and High Synagogues – all of which were built in the 15th and 16th centuries.

Construction on Corpus Christi church began prior to 1341.

Kazimierz was in a state of deterioration after the war years, but the release of Steven Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List, which was filmed here, catapulted it onto the world’s stage.

Today Kazimierz has an active Jewish population and has emerged as Krakow’s artsy bohemian district known for its coffee shops, street food and nightlife.

Kazimierz is again the center of the Jewish population.
We are staying in a nice Airbnb in Kazimierz and were surprised to find several Food Cart pods in the neighborhood including this one across the street.

At the time of the Nazi invasion and occupation in September 1939, Kazimierz was home to approximately 65,000 Jewish individuals making up 25% of Krakow’s entire population.

April 1940 Nazis deported 50,000 to labor camps.

March 3, 1941 Nazis issued orders. Within 18 days the entire remaining Jewish population had to vacate homes their families had lived in for centuries and move into the Krakow Ghetto across the Vistula River.

On March 21, 1941 the ghetto, a 50-acre plot in Podgorze’s historic center, was enclosed with walls.

On one side of a elementary school playground these original ghetto walls are still standing. They were intentionally designed to resemble Jewish headstones.

The 320 mostly one or two-story buildings were in miserable condition, dank and moldy without electricity, bathrooms, or running water. Podgorze which had been home to 3000 and was crammed with 10,000-18,000 people. A single flat was occupied by multiple families.

Many families believed their humiliation had come to an end with the move to the ghetto and that Hitler had achieved his ultimate goal: Krakow was “judenrein” – free of Jews.

In the ghetto, cafes, restaurants and shops opened and people adapted. But, it was not the end…

Podgorze is home to the Oskar Schindler’s factory today housing a museum and Apteka Pod Orłem Pharmacy, aka the Pharmacy Under the Eagle. When the Nazis created the Krakow Ghetto, the pharmacy’s Polish owner, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, voluntarily decided to stay, living and working in the ghetto. He and his staff were the only Poles allowed to do so.
The pharmacy became an important center for social life and a resource for acquiring food, medicine, falsified documents and a safehouse. Pankiewicz and his staff risked their lives in many clandestine operations and are recognized as “Righteous Among the Nations.” The pharmacy has been recreated to look exactly as it did in the Nazi occupation.

March 14, 1943 was the bloodiest day in Podgorze’s history as German troops attempted to herd the final remaining residents into transports. Chaos reigned and as many as 2000 were killed in the streets and 3000 marched to the train station and loaded on cattle cars bound for the gas chambers of Aushwitz.


A German guardhouse overlooks Zagody Square which was the place for ghetto residents to relax, socialize and escape the overcrowded tenements, but also the site of round-ups, beatings, and executions. After the war it was renamed Plac Bohaterow Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square) and offers a memorial of 70 large well-spaced chairs representing the departure and absence of the ghetto residents.

Krakow Ghetto was liquidated after two years.

The streets of Podgorze.
We found a milk bar in Podgorze and had a good authentic Polish meal of pork cutlet, fried beetroot, chilled beetroot soup, and cabbage rolls with 2 glasses of the fruity kompot.
Plus a plate of cherry pierogi for dessert.
In 2010 the Father Laetus Bernatek footbridge for pedestrians and bicyclists opened in place of the old Podgorski Bridge providing easy passage from Kazimierz to Podgorze across the Vistula River. On both sides of the river there are nice wide trails for biking and strolling.
The bridge is adorned with nine acrobatic gravity defying sculptures.
The blue square (1) is the Krakow market square, surrounded by the old city (2) and encircled by the Planty (the solid blue outline.) The yellow is the Castle on Wawel Hill (3) and the green section Kazimierz (4). The yellow section across the Vistula River is Podgorze (5) – the site of the Krakow Ghetto.
If you like maps like I do, here is another one showing the many green spaces as well as the park – The Planty – in place of the old city’s walls and filled-in moat. The city is very walkable, but also connected with many buses and trams.
A Kazimierz memorial and “Place of meditation for the martyrdom of 65,000 Polish citizens of Jewish nationality from Cracow.“

With our nice apartment we have been making coffee at home each morning and sometimes have cooked eggs and kielbasa sausage for breakfast. We generally go out each day to explore the streets and neighborhoods and look for a place to have another coffee, maybe a ice cream or treat and a main meal.

If you’ve read this far, thank you. I appreciate each of you following our journey and for your comments.

I will Meet You in the Morning next time from Wieliczka Salt Mine, another one of the original 12 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It should be cool!

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