Today we visit two of Krakow’s districts that originally were separate towns: Kazimierz and Podgorze.
On February 27, 1355 King Kazmir the Great granted a charter for a new city to be named for him – Kazimierz.
A 10-minute walk south from Wawel Hill brings one to Kazimierz which was the center of Jewish life for 500 years.
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The neighborhood is home to the churches of St. Catherine and Corpus Christi, which dates back to the 14th-century, and Remuh Synagogue and Cemetery, Popper, Isaac, Kupa, Old, and High Synagogues – all of which were built in the 15th and 16th centuries.
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Kazimierz was in a state of deterioration after the war years, but the release of Steven Spielberg’s film Schindler’s List, which was filmed here, catapulted it onto the world’s stage.
Today Kazimierz has an active Jewish population and has emerged as Krakow’s artsy bohemian district known for its coffee shops, street food and nightlife.
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At the time of the Nazi invasion and occupation in September 1939, Kazimierz was home to approximately 65,000 Jewish individuals making up 25% of Krakow’s entire population.
April 1940 Nazis deported 50,000 to labor camps.
March 3, 1941 Nazis issued orders. Within 18 days the entire remaining Jewish population had to vacate homes their families had lived in for centuries and move into the Krakow Ghetto across the Vistula River.
On March 21, 1941 the ghetto, a 50-acre plot in Podgorze’s historic center, was enclosed with walls.
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The 320 mostly one or two-story buildings were in miserable condition, dank and moldy without electricity, bathrooms, or running water. Podgorze which had been home to 3000 and was crammed with 10,000-18,000 people. A single flat was occupied by multiple families.
Many families believed their humiliation had come to an end with the move to the ghetto and that Hitler had achieved his ultimate goal: Krakow was “judenrein” – free of Jews.
In the ghetto, cafes, restaurants and shops opened and people adapted. But, it was not the end…
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March 14, 1943 was the bloodiest day in Podgorze’s history as German troops attempted to herd the final remaining residents into transports. Chaos reigned and as many as 2000 were killed in the streets and 3000 marched to the train station and loaded on cattle cars bound for the gas chambers of Aushwitz.
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A German guardhouse overlooks Zagody Square which was the place for ghetto residents to relax, socialize and escape the overcrowded tenements, but also the site of round-ups, beatings, and executions. After the war it was renamed Plac Bohaterow Getta (Ghetto Heroes Square) and offers a memorial of 70 large well-spaced chairs representing the departure and absence of the ghetto residents.
Krakow Ghetto was liquidated after two years.
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With our nice apartment we have been making coffee at home each morning and sometimes have cooked eggs and kielbasa sausage for breakfast. We generally go out each day to explore the streets and neighborhoods and look for a place to have another coffee, maybe a ice cream or treat and a main meal.
If you’ve read this far, thank you. I appreciate each of you following our journey and for your comments.
I will Meet You in the Morning next time from Wieliczka Salt Mine, another one of the original 12 UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It should be cool!
Thank you for the virtual tour of your trip. Very interesting. Looking forward to your next post!
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Thank you for reading and your kind comment.
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